Free DTF Halftone Generator

DTF Halftone
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Fit

Knockout

Print size @300 DPI

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2× and 15×19″ enlarge pixels — not AI detail. Size first, then half-tone (enlarging after half-tone makes the dots fat). Big print: 15×19″ = 4500×5700 px. Others: 12×16″ (3600×4800) · 11×14″ (3300×4200) · 10×12″ (3000×3600) · sleeve ~5×14″ (1500×4200).

Need a true-size canvas? Print size templates. Can’t get it sharp or big enough? Send it with your custom order — we’ll prep it in-house.

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Slider: drag the lime handle. Zoom with − / + (or pinch / ctrl-scroll), drag to pan when zoomed. Dots = 100% so you see the real dot pattern. Backgrounds are preview only — never baked into the file.

Knock out this colour

Clean black method

Mask tolerance — like Photoshop’s magic wand on the ink: higher selects darker / duller colours too, lower keeps only bright, clear ink. Dark murky browns/greys stay outside the mask and print as nothing (shirt black). Navy is always kept. Default 50.

Edge choke — pulls the mask edge in to trim dark/muddy fringe around shapes. Default 0.5 px.

Smooth edges — smooths jaggy JPEG edges with a clean anti-aliased cut. 0 = exact pixels. Default 1.

Clean mask keeps the real ink shapes with their original pixels and makes everything else solid black (fully clear) — murky dark bits, smudges and fringes go. Applies to Black knockout. Knock tolerance / Soft edge below are only used when “Half-tone inside shapes” is ticked.

Knock tolerance — how aggressive black/white knockout is. Lower = only near-exact blacks/whites clear. Higher = more of the darks/lights become transparent. Shop default 25.

Soft edge — feathers the knockout edge so it isn’t a hard cut. Higher = softer transition into clear pixels. Shop default 20.

Clean dark mud — clears murky dark browns / greys / olive, JPEG smudges and dark edge fringes that should be pure black, so they don’t print as dirty marks or a faint dot mesh. Bright colours, small red/white specks, navy and real fades stay. Also drops dots too small for DTF to hold. 0 = off. Default 0; higher = stronger (very dark maroon may start to clear above ~75).

Black tee mode: remove dark black only (shirt shows through). Whites, lights and colours stay — after should look close to the original. Mid greys become half-tone dots (DTF can’t do soft transparency). Proof colour shows holes; Black tee = print preview.

Full screens the shading and the glow. Fades only keeps skin, type and flat colour solid. Leave half-tone Off for solid colour / sharp graphics that only need knockout.

Halftone fade — how far into the tones dots start replacing solid ink. Higher = more dotted / softer hand. Shop default 45.

Solidify — keeps the darkest areas solid (less dotted) so line-art and cores stay strong. Shop default 65.

Dot size

Dot size (LPI) — lines per inch. Lower = chunkier vintage dots. Higher = finer. Shop default 35 LPI (25 = chunkier · 45 = finer).

Black point — crushes near-blacks darker before half-tone. Raise slightly to clean muddy shadows. Default 0.

Gamma (mids) — brightens or darkens midtones. Above 1 opens mids (more shirt show-through / softer look). Default 1.00.

White point — pulls highlights toward white. Leave at 255 unless whites look dull.

Saturation — boosts colour strength after knockout. 1.0 = unchanged.

Colour = your converted art as a PNG with clear pixels where knockout / half-tone opened up. White = choked white underbase for dark tees (built from the pre-half-tone silhouette, so it isn’t dotted). Proof / tee colours are preview only — never baked in.

Choke — shrinks the white underbase slightly so white doesn’t peek past colour edges on dark tees.

Tools helped? Optional tip — chip in for further development. Tip $5 / $10 / $25 →